Heading up the Cape in a 4WD is one of those lifetime experiences that should not be missed! Even if touring with the family or friends is the main item on the agenda, there are always plenty of interesting places to wet a line when the opportunity arises. After a couple of decades spent at the pointy end of Queensland, Dave Donald takes a look at some of the spots worth a visit with rod on board as well as some of the other options available to the travelling angler.
A selection of some of the author's favourite barra lures.
If you’ve never been to Cape York then it’s difficult to comprehend just how vast an area is involved. Add in the fact that sealed roads are just about non existent and even the most basic of mod cons are very few and far between, and you end up with a place that is far removed from the expectations of most city dwellers.
When I lived at Punsand Bay, just south west of the very tip of Australia, the phone calls would come at regular intervals. “We’ll be leaving Cairns in an hour or so, about 10am, could you book us in for dinner?” There would usually be a period of stunned silence when the caller was told that it was 18 to 20 hours driving time - although there were others who were prepared to argue that you didn’t know what you were talking about!
Most Cape travellers, however, do their homework, and their trip is enhanced accordingly. There is certainly plenty of good information available if you are prepared to seek it out. Most of the 4WD magazines, in particular, have links to most of the specialist books, DVD’s and other information available.
A nice mangrove jack caught on lure. These are a tough fighting fish and provide a great alternative to the barramundi.
While it’s great to be able to get a leave pass to head off on a ‘fish till you drop’ Cape excursion, many anglers, either by preference or design, find that fishing is only a secondary consideration to having a good look around. The rods and tackle are included, of course, as there is no better end to a days camping than having a couple of freshly caught fillets sizzling in the pan or grilling in the coals.
There are plenty of places to wet a line from the shore on Cape York Peninsula, all relatively out of the way, some are just more so than the others! While Princess Charlotte Bay and Karumba are usually included in the Cape’s boundaries, I’ve decided to look at the more northern areas in this article.
Some places are a fair way off the main track, the Peninsula Development Road (PDR), and it should be noted that getting there may be a slow process with road conditions varying anywhere between reasonably gravel and goat track! The main thing to remember is to drive accordingly as rushing is a recipe for vehicle damage or breakdown.
So take your time, enjoy the countryside, preserve your vehicle and you’re well on the way to having a great trip. Ending the day with a line in the water is a whole lot better than being stuck on the side of the road miles from anywhere with a busted spring or cracked radiator!
Most of these remote locations have no facilities so visitors must be self sufficient. Visiting some of these areas will entail an overnight stay so make sure you are properly prepared and equipped.
The indiscriminate dumping of rubbish is a big problem on the Cape and the indiscretions of a few have led to tourists being renamed ‘terrorists’ by some locals. Be prepared to take all your rubbish with you while making sure your campsite is left clean and all fires extinguished.
A beautiful barra from the Wenlock River just north of Weipa.
Let’s have a look at some of the ‘fishy’ places worth a visit:
Port Stewart
Formerly the port for the Wenlock and Coen gold fields, the mouth of the Stewart River is reached by turning right off the PDR just over 80 k’s north of Musgrave (27k’s south of Coen). This is a popular camping and fishing spot for the Coen community but can get very windy when the trade winds are at their peak.
Portland Roads/Chilli Beach
A well marked turnoff about 20 k’s north of the Archer River Roadhouse heads east towards Portland Roads and Lockhart River aboriginal community. Camping is available at Chilli Beach but requires a permit from EPA, which can be obtained from the Ranger Station along the way. Fishing from the beach and rocks in this area can be fruitful and the outlook from Chilli Beach is certainly spectacular. However, the strong trade winds that prevail from May until September, combined with precipitation on the mountainous Iron Range area just inland, can induce some miserable conditions here, at times.
Fishing off a Gulf beach while the sun sets over the sea. What a way to end the day!
Weipa
Although it is the major population centre of the Cape, Weipa is well worth a visit if catching a fish or two is on the agenda. Some of the popular spots include the jetty at Evan’s Landing, nearby Gonbung Beach, Kerr Point, Rocky Point, the beaches adjacent to the Mission and Andoom Bridges, and Red Beach. Of course, there is always the option of hiring a boat for the day or heading out on a charter. The Weipa Camping Ground has the beach on one side and the shopping centre on the other for the utmost in convenience. For those wanting to upgrade from the tent or swag, there are rooms available at the Albatross Bay Resort, Heritage Resort and sometimes at the camping grounds new Fishing Lodge. All major facilities are available including EPTPOS and a couple of ATM’s.
By Dave Donald
Read more in the 2008 Cape Yorker magazine- available online.